Cold weather, dry skin: Dermatologists reveal the mistakes that could be damaging your skin during winter

As temperature drops, warm clothes and winter essentials become part of our daily routine. But while we remember to protect ourselves from the cold, skincare is often overlooked until dry, flaky, or itchy patches begin to appear. The shift in weather, lower humidity and frequent exposure to indoor heating can leave the skin feeling rough and uncomfortable.

Winter skincare, however, does not have to involve an elaborate routine or expensive products. Sometimes, a few simple changes, such as switching to a richer moisturiser, avoiding excessively hot showers and staying hydrated, can make a noticeable difference.

But what should you actually change in your skincare routine when winter arrives? Should you choose oils, creams or lotions?

Should you change your winter skincare routine?

Dr Karan Malhotra, Consultant Dermatologist at CK Birla Hospitals, CMRI, Kolkata, believes, "People make mistakes in the winter, like taking hot showers and using a cleanser to feel cleaner. Unfortunately, the hot water takes the natural oils away, which dries and irritates your skin. Over-exfoliating also adds more stress to an already weak skin barrier. Instead of harsh skin care treatments, try using a gentle cleanser, moisturising your skin, and taking not-too-hot showers."

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A skincare routine that works during summer may not offer enough protection once the weather gets colder. The skin needs additional hydration to deal with the drop in humidity and increased moisture loss.

Dr Malhotra suggests, "You should update your skincare routine as you change your wardrobe. During the cold winter months, focus on hydration and protection for your skin. After your morning routine with cleanser and a moisturising cream containing ceramides and glycerin, apply a sunscreen that offers at least SPF 50. Your evening routine should consist of a face cleanser and a thicker moisturiser to avoid dehydration. Those with oily skin still need to use a moisturiser; just ensure it fits your skin type."

While moisturising is essential, choosing the right formulation is equally important. According to Dr Aishwarya Devaraj, Consultant - Dermatology, Venereology & Leprosy Dermatologist at Manipal Hospitals Gurugram, "Most individuals have the desired effect with either of these formulations. Extremely dry and flaky skin required creamy moisturizers. Normal to combination skin requires lotions which are lighter yet does the job. Oily skin deserves a gel based moisturiser which are much lighter formulations that doesn’t occlude the pores further more."

This also means that people with oily skin should not skip moisturiser during winter. Instead, they should opt for lighter formulations that provide hydration without feeling too heavy.

Ingredients for dry and itchy skin

Dryness, tightness and itching are among the most common complaints during winter. Dr Malhotra recommends looking for products containing ceramides, hyaluronic acid and glycerin, which help maintain hydration and protect the skin.

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"Tight, itchy, or dry winter skin calls for a moisturiser containing ceramides, hyaluronic acid, and glycerin to protect the skin barrier. Petrolatum is effective at protecting extremely dry spots. You should know what products and behaviours to avoid in order to protect your skin from becoming worse, such as harsh soaps, high alcohol content products, strong fragrances, and exfoliation. Avoid scrubbing your dry, flaky skin, as this will just make the situation worse. If itching, redness or cracking persists, consult a dermatologist, as it could be a sign of eczema or another skin condition."

Dr Devaraj also points out that "Washing hands excessively strips the skin of its natural oils, making it prone to dryness. Reducing it to the necessities is important. Applying intense moisture holding creams, petroleum jelly or hydrating lotions after each wash helps retain the lost moisture."

She adds, "Using gentle but effective hand wash, basic coconut or almond oil application at night time improves skin integrity."

For those dealing with cracked heels and chapped lips, Dr Sushma Shenoy U, Assistant Professor, Department of Rasashastra and Bhaishajya Kalpana, and Consultant at Aesthetic Medicine, SDM College of Ayurveda Hospital and Research Centre, Kuthpady, Udupi, also highlights the importance of regular moisturising and gentle care.

From an Ayurvedic perspective, she explains that winter is associated with Vata aggravation, which can contribute to dryness and roughness.

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"One common myth is that applying natural oils or heavy creams alone is sufficient to protect the skin during winter. According to Ayurveda, winter is associated with Vata aggravation, which manifests as dryness and roughness of the skin. Cold weather and low humidity can also compromise the skin barrier, increasing moisture loss and sensitivity. Moreover, unsuitable heavy products may aggravate acne-prone skin. Skincare should therefore be individualised according to Prakriti, skin type and existing conditions, along with appropriate dietary and seasonal lifestyle modifications."

How to deal with common winter problems

Winter skin concerns are not limited to dryness. Some people experience redness, irritation, allergies and even painful swelling around their fingers and toes.

Dr Devaraj says, "Pollen/Dust allergies are one of the most common, yet highly disregarded conditions during winter. The wind is still and the allergens linger in every breath we take. Wearing a mask, using a humidifier and an air purifier becomes mandatory during winters."

She further explains that cold weather can trigger conditions such as woollen allergies, frostbite or chilblains, where fingertips and toes become swollen and painful. Another condition to watch out for is erythema ab igne, which causes the skin to develop a reddish, net-like pattern due to repeated exposure to heat.

Asteatotic eczema, also known as winter eczema, is another concern. It can leave the skin on the legs and feet dry, hard and scaly.

"For most of these, keeping yourself warm, moisturised and keeping a safe distance from heaters or using heating pads cautiously becomes the norm to prevent the common winter conditions."

The scalp also needs attention during the colder months. Many people tend to wash their hair less frequently because of the cold, but this can contribute to product and dirt build-up.

Dr Devaraj explains, "Seborrheic dermatitis or flaky scalp is most commonly seen in winters because most of us feel it unnecessary to wash hair frequently during cold season but this exact reason is why there is excessive dirt and build up on the scalp leading to infection and inflammation."

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Meanwhile, Dr Shenoy recommends a gentle approach to managing cracked heels and chapped lips.

"The common winter skin complaints include dryness, redness, itching, roughness, cracked heels and chapped lips. Ayurveda recommends gentle cleansing and avoiding excessive scrubbing, which can further damage the skin barrier. Regular application of suitable natural oils and moisturising preparations, along with avoiding prolonged hot showers, helps manage dryness. For cracked heels, regular Padabhyanga (therapeutic foot massage) and application of nourishing, protective preparations help soften the skin and prevent further cracking. For chapped lips, suitable natural butters help retain moisture. Persistent itching, inflammation or deep fissures require individual clinical assessment and appropriate treatment."

Can your diet help your skin glow in winter?

Skincare is not just about what you apply externally. What you eat and drink can also affect how your skin looks and feels.

Dr Devaraj highlighted the need for adequate hydration and conscious selection of foods during the winter months.

"Water. Hydration is key. Sugar-free diet. ⁠No processed or packed food. ⁠Internal condition impacts external look. For dry skin, look for food rich in omega fatty acids like flax seeds, dry fruits, fish and other sea food."

Dr Shenoy also talks about the importance of nutritious foods for healthy skin. In Ayurveda, this is referred to as Snigdha Ahara, which involves including foods containing healthy fats in one's diet.

She also recommends Abhyanga, an Ayurvedic practice of applying therapeutic oil, as an essential part of winter skin care.

"The non-negotiable winter skincare recommendation is Abhyanga (therapeutic oil application). Ayurveda recommends regular Abhyanga to counter Vata aggravation and skin dryness. Suitable oils should be selected according to individual skin type and condition. ShatadhautaGhrita (ghee processed through repeated washing, traditionally 100 times) is another traditional preparation valued for its soothing and moisturising properties. I also emphasise Snigdha Ahara (nourishing foods containing healthy fats), adequate hydration and seasonal dietary practices. The use of authentic, skin-appropriate herbal moisturisers with natural oils and butters can further support skin barrier maintenance."

Ultimately, the key is to understand what your skin needs. And if dryness, itching, or inflammation won’t settle, it’s always best to seek advice from a dermatologist rather than try lots of products.