In the quiet village of Sasthamcotta in Kollam, Kerala, the ancient Sree Dharma Sastha Temple sits in the midst of greenery and is surrounded by the state's largest freshwater lake. While the temple draws thousands of devotees year-round, its most famous residents don’t wait in lines or offer prayers. They swing from tree to tree, leap across tiled roofs, and rule over the supreme courtyard. Yes, you’re on the right track, monkeys.
During Onam festivities, Kerala’s grandest harvest festival, humans everywhere lay out elaborate ‘Onasadya’ feasts served on banana leaves. But at Sasthamcotta, the culinary royal treatment extends directly to the troop.
As the aroma of roasted coconut and cooked rice fills the air, the traditional feast begins with a unique twist. Fresh, broad plantain leaves are lined up in long, neat rows along the stone pathways of the temple grounds. Devotees and temple staff work side-by-side, carefully plating a special vegetarian spread crafted specifically for their primate guests.
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There are no frantic grabs or chaotic scrambles. The monkeys, accustomed to this annual honour, troop down from the canopy with remarkable composure. Mothers carry clingy infants on their bellies, elder alpha males take their positions with dignified pride, and energetic juveniles scamper into line.
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The sight is pure magic dozens of monkeys sitting side by side, deftly scooping up payasam with their fingers, munching on crispy chips, and enjoying their ‘sadya’ alongside human onlookers. Local legend holds that these monkeys are the descendants of the Vanara army that assisted Lord Rama, making their care a sacred duty rather than a mere novelty.
In a world where wildlife often clashes with human spaces, Sasthamcotta offers a heartwarming glimpse of harmony. For one unforgettable afternoon every Onam, the barrier between humans and nature dissolves into shared laughter, banana leaves, and a festival where everyone, whether or not they have a tail, gets a seat.

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