Madhya Pradesh is better known as the tiger capital of India among wildlife enthusiasts. Tigers are known to be elusive, strong and legendary mammals who live lonesome and gruesome lives. Fighting with each other for territory and often killing each other over females or to expand their own space, tigers take tonnes of effort to spot in the wild. And off I went to Bandhavgarh and Kanha National Parks in search of these elusive creatures.

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Around 3 hours from Jabalpur Airport lies Bandhavgarh National Park. Kings Lodge by Pugdundee Safaris was my solace of peace. In the evening, our lead naturalist told us more about what we could expect the next day. We were going to do our first safari in the core zone area of Tala. At 5 am, we were all prepared for the safari with hats, sunglasses, and blankets (it was slightly cold in the morning). Within the first thirty minutes of the safari, I was awed by the wonderful sal forest and was also able to spot a tigress. She lay hidden among the hay, but the naturalist spotted her. We could also smell a kill around the area. 

We continued into the stunning forest during the safari. Keeping my phone away during the morning hours felt relaxing. And within fifteen minutes, we spotted three more tigers. They were young brothers, less than 2 years old. Rarely do we see tigers in groups otherwise. We also spot jackals, wild boars, domestic elephants, Indian vultures, kingfishers, crested eagles, and several other birds. The safari left us wanting for more. At Kings Lodge, we were treated with fresh juices and a thali lunch inspired by the local dishes of Madhya Pradesh. I simply couldn’t wait for the next day’s safaris. 

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Khitauli was our core zone area the following day. On our way inside, our naturalist informed us about the alpha tiger Bajrang, holding the majority of the core zone area in Bandhavgarh and we were excited to spot him. However, we had little luck that day. We ended up birding and being close to tigers but not seeing any. We managed to see pug marks, tree territory marks and smelt animal kills but the tiger remained elusive. Tiger sightings are all about patience, I was told. That evening we stayed at Tree House Hideaway near the core zone of Tala. Staying in a treehouse has never been more luxurious. There was a stunning balcony outside my room from which I could see bamboo and sal trees. I woke up to hear birds chirping. With only six treehouses, the property was a niche and boasted a private experience. Dinner was in the wild with live food being cooked. Paneer tikka, aloo tikka, dal, paneer saag and a muha cocktail. Simple yet refreshing.  Why did Meghan Markle go makeup-free on a podcast? Sparks social media chatter

Next up, we wanted to explore another infamous wildlife safari region - Kanha National Park. This region looks less green than Bandhavgarh but that makes it easier to spot tigers. At Kanha, our safari was in the Sarhi zone and we experienced some stunning green forest. On our morning safari, we weren’t able to spot a tiger and came back disheartened. However, it was a learning lesson to book in advance for a better zone for all our next safaris. Some zones in Kanha are great for sightseeing - Kanha and Mukki and I would love to go back to these zones next. I also realised how important birds are to ecosystems, and on tiger safaris, the birds often go unnoticed.

We might have been close to seeing a tige,r but we did not spot one. A sambar deer looked alert, raised its tail and stomped its foot. All signs of danger - but nothing was to be seen. 

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On returning to Kanha Earth Lodge, we were treated with delicious thali meals. For dinner, we had a thaali inspired by Madhya Pradesh. Local dishes like Brahmakransh Chakri, Bhatti Chokha, Paan bada, Paneer patodia, kulthi dal, bedra chutney and mahua ice cream were served. Since it was the last day of our trip, we spent time playing a local African game called Mancala which was placed in the lobby. It was a great way to bond and also pick up a new skill. 

While my tiger trail in Madhya Pradesh came to end, I left with memories of having spotted four tigers and knowing their legendary stories. Also understanding the behaviours of numerous birds. Spending time in the forest had rejuvenated me and I can’t wait to go back.