Asian masalanomics for spice trade spiced up in Vietnam 2000 years ago, reveals study

The spicing up or mellowing down of our cuisines has been defined by spices almost since time immemorial. But a recent study appears to be the evidence of Southeast Asia's oldest known curry, and the oldest curry ever found outside Indian subcontinent.

The research, published in Science Advances, sheds light on the historical spice trade, dating back around 2,000 years.

The study by a group of researchers from Australian National University (ANU) in Canberra presents their remarkable discovery at the Oc Eo archaeological complex in southern Vietnam as the evidence of aforementioned curry.

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The intriguing find includes eight distinct spices sourced from different origins, presumably used for preparing curry. The most fascinating aspect is that some of these spices had been transported over vast distances, traversing thousands of kilometres by sea.

Initially focused on understanding ancient stone grinding tools called "pesani," the team's research expanded to explore the broader context of the ancient spice trade. Using a technique known as starch grain analysis, they examined microscopic plant remains from various grinding and pounding tools excavated at the Oc Eo site, dating from the 1st to 8th centuries CE.

Trade of spices: Which all spices were traded?

The analysis of 40 tools produced a range of spices, including turmeric, ginger, fingerroot, sand ginger, galangal, clove, nutmeg, and cinnamon. This evidence strongly suggests that the site's inhabitants utilised these tools to process spices, transforming rhizomes, seeds, and stems into flavourful powders.

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To determine the site's age, the team obtained 29 separate dates from charcoal and wood samples. Additionally, a separate team employed thermoluminescence dating on bricks from the site's architecture. The combined results indicate that the Oc Eo complex was occupied between the 1st and 8th centuries CE.

What does it mean?

This research fills a significant gap in our knowledge of ancient curry, as previous evidence mainly originated from India. It vividly confirms the historical significance of spices as valuable commodities traded in a global network nearly 2,000 years ago.

“Our study suggests that curries were most likely introduced to Southeast Asia by migrants during the period of early trade contact via the Indian Ocean,” the study’s first author, Weiwei Wang, a PhD candidate at the Australian National University (ANU) in Canberra, was quoted as saying by the South China Morning Post.

The presence of spices at Oc Eo indicates that they were likely transported to the region through maritime trade via the Indian or Pacific Ocean, highlighting the captivating history of curry beyond India's borders.

The study also reveals the enduring nature of culinary traditions. The curry recipe used in Vietnam today remains remarkably consistent with that of nearly 2,000 years ago, with key ingredients like turmeric, cloves, cinnamon, and coconut milk standing the test of time.

Continued dating of the site may also reveal insights into the global trade and distribution of various spices and plants throughout history.

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