Beyond ethnic! How kurti became Bollywood’s go-to symbol of effortless Indian style

Bollywood remains more than just entertainment, as reflected in its ability to function as a mirror to the cultural sensibilities of India, its penchant for reinventing the many wardrobe staples that the industry subscribes to, and, in the process, its ability to turn the kurti into the signifier of Indian understated elegance. This signifier of Indian understated elegance, in turn, extends its boundaries to the Indian indie scene.

From traditional attire to everyday expression

The kurti was traditionally known to belong to the category of region-specific attire for daily use and not to the glamour attire category. This changed with the intervention of the Bollywood industry, which brought the kurti within the realm of everyday situations like college campuses, office spaces, cafes, or homes. Instead of being portrayed as formal attire, it was showcased as a part of daily attire.

Because of this, the kurti began to be recognised not as ‘ethnic wear’ for times past, but as an all-purpose article of clothing that integrates perfectly into contemporary lifestyles.

The voice of comfort on screen

Comfort is perhaps the single largest reason why the kurti has become a staple of Bollywood cinema. With a shift towards realism in the types of stories told on screen, the clothing worn by characters reflects this shift as well. The kurti is a clothing item which provides a strong visual vocabulary that talks about ease and realism.

Whether wearing the kurti with jeans, palazzo pants or churidars, the garment symbolized effortless poise.

Bridging tradition and modernity

The kurti is the attire worn by the women of Bollywood and is a tightrope walker between tradition and modernity. In fact, the silhouette of the kurti provides ample opportunities to work with prints, lengths, layering, and texturing while retaining an Indian essence.

In some urban storylines, the kurti came to represent a design solution for characters leading their lives in the modern world while also remaining grounded in their culture. This also relates to the manner in which many Indian women in today’s world like to wear their clothes, blending their heritage with the latest fashion trends.

Embodiment of effortless Indian chic

In contrast, “extremely styled” costumes can’t compare to this, as they somehow dwarf the wearer. The essence of “kurti” lies in subtlety, although it has managed to convey “individuality without excess, style without strain” on screen, which has, in turn, made this attire a staple of Bollywood for smart, independent, and earthy characters.

Janhvi Kapoor Photograph: (IG)

Why is this trend growing?

Speaking about the influence from B-Town is also substantial, according to Mr Anuj Mundhra, Founder, Chairman & Managing Director, Nandani Creation Limited (Brand: Jaipur Kurti) , “Bollywood has changed the perception about wearing kurtis with western accessories like jeans or jackets. Today’s youth finds these outfits more relatable. The jeans and kurti trend has completely changed the perception about middle-aged outfits and transformed them into trendy and modern wear for everyday use.”

These insights explain why kurtis are now being embraced more widely in contemporary wardrobes. The eclectic orders of many fashion designers is driven by demand for the new modern wardrobe, with kurtis being in the top spot. Their comfortable, relaxed fit aligns perfectly with current lifestyle needs, while sustainable fabrics and modern cuts further enhance their appeal.

Mr. Mundhra adds, “What I find most interesting is the normalization of Kurtis as everyday wear. From travel and coffee runs to casual meet-ups, the styling of kurtis by celebrities makes ethnic fashion feel accessible and more relatable.”

The legacy of cinema on closets

As the film fashion trend filters down, the impact of the film journey of the kurti is reflected in the manner in which the garment is being worn outside the film industry as well. Right from the workplace to travel attire, the impact of the film industry, in the form of the Bollywood film, is such that it not only featured the kurti but also repositioned its utility in the contemporary Indian wardrobe.