Argentina's beef belt tightens

In a country where beef is as much a part of the identity as soccer and mate tea, Argentines now consume less beef than ever. With recession coupled with triple-figure inflation, many are already being forced to pull in their horns.

Beef consumption has dropped almost 16 per cent this year in Argentina — an astounding fall for a country synonymous with steakhouses, sprawling cattle ranches and asado barbecues. In most Argentines' minds, there was simply one food staple: beef. In-built "parrilla" grills can be found in many homes and steakhouses cornering Buenos Aires. Improvised barbecues have been found even at building sites or during protests, which is a testament to how closely the cultural identity has been forged with beef.

"Beef is an essential part of the Argentine diet; it's like eliminating pasta for Italians," Claudia San Martin, 66, a retiree, said as she waited in line outside a butcher shop. The economic jitters notwithstanding, she would continue spending on beef before all other things. "Argentines can eliminate anything, I believe, in difficult times like this. But we can't do without meat," she said emphatically.

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However, the latest data shows Argentines are this year eating beef at an average of about 44 kilograms per year, drastically down from more than 52 kilograms last year and far from the 100 kilograms eaten annually in the 1950s. Changing diets that replaced beef with other meats like pork and chicken and cheaper staples such as pasta have been blamed for the long-term decline. But this year's drop is largely due to the close to 300 per cent inflation, with the economy flatlining and harsh austerity measures taken by the libertarian helm of President Javier Milei.

The economic crisis has translated into a spike in poverty, with more homeless sleeping in larger cities' streets and longer lines outside soup kitchens. Many families have had to give up eating staples such as meat, milk and vegetables in recent months, and so far they have failed to see any benefit from slowing monthly inflation. "The situation right now is critical. Consumers are taking decisions thinking just about their wallets," said Miguel Schiariti, the president of the local meat chamber, CICCRA. He expects meat consumption to remain low as purchasing power weakens month by month.

The ranchers of cattle are equally harried in the Buenos Aires province farmlands. The decrease in beef consumption not only stings the ranchers but also trickles down to specific producers and, in turn, the larger agricultural economy. Lower demand for beef has made it hard for ranchers to sustain their operations and their basic livelihood.

Domestic consumption of beef in Argentina is currently at its lowest ever, driven by severe economic conditions. While beef remains dear to Argentine identity, difficult choices are resident because the economic realities have become a reason for bitter decisions by many. Argentina's future as a beef consumer will depend on how well the country can stabilize its economy and regain purchasing power for its people. Until then, empty grills at "parrillas" may be a common sight—a sharp reminder that times have changed in this once beef-loving nation.