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In Pics | Nepali sherpa saves Malaysian climber in rare Everest 'death zone' rescue

Nepali sherpa saves the life of a Malaysian climber
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Nepali sherpa saves the life of a Malaysian climber

Gelje Sherpa, 30, was guiding a Chinese client to the 8,849 metre (29,032 feet) Everest summit on May 18 when he saw the Malaysian climber clinging to a rope and shivering from extreme cold in the area called the "death zone", where temperatures can dip to minus 30 degree Celsius (-22F) or lower.

Another sherpa helped Gelje
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Another sherpa helped Gelje

Gelje hauled the climber 600 metres (1,900 feet) down from the Balcony area to the South Col, over a period of about six hours, where Nima Tahi Sherpa, another guide, joined the rescue.

"We wrapped the climber in a sleeping mat, dragged him on the snow or carried him in turns on our backs to camp III," Gelje said.

An impossible rescue
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An impossible rescue

A helicopter using a long line then lifted him from the 7,162-metre (23,500 feet)-high Camp III down to base camp.

"It is almost impossible to rescue climbers at that altitude," Department of Tourism official Bigyan Koirala told Reuters. "It is a very rare operation."

Gelje said he convinced his Chinese client to give up his summit attempt and descend the mountain, saying it was important for him to rescue the climber.

The climber has gone back to Malaysia
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The climber has gone back to Malaysia

"Saving one life is more important than praying at the monastery," said Gelje, a devout Buddhist.

Tashi Lakhpa Sherpa of the Seven Summit Treks company, which provided logistics to the Malaysian climber, declined to name him, citing his client's privacy. The climber was put on a flight to Malaysia last week.
 

Hundreds come to Everest every year
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Hundreds come to Everest every year

Nepal issued a record 478 permits for Everest during this year's March to May climbing season.

At least 12 climbers have died – the highest number in eight years, and another five are still missing on Everest's slopes.