Gucci's new designer Sabato De Sarno sent out a glamorous, skin-baring lineup of minimalist designs for his first fashion show on Friday, drawing praise for a highly anticipated debut which owner Kering hopes will help revive sales at its flagship brand.

Models filed down a darkened, concrete runway at the label's Milan headquarters, a former aircraft factory, parading short shorts paired with suit jackets, strapless mini-dresses, trim sweatshirts and tank tops with plunging necklines.

De Sarno "knows what we need at the moment, clean luxe sportswear that isn't cheeky sexy," said fashion critic Kenneth Richard, editor in chief of industry publication The Impression.

Federico Giglio, chief executive and business manager of Italy-based high-end fashion retailer Giglio.com, said the collection was "a new way to see luxury - wearable without the need for excess, that keeps with the times."

Friday's catwalk presentation serves as the aesthetic foundation of a broad reset of the French group's prized label -- key to creating buzz and reigniting sales, even if the new designs won't hit stores until early next year.

Thomas Chauvet, analyst with Citi, said the first glimpse of De Sarno's vision for the brand showed "a clear evolution from prior brand aesthetics, likely to attract slightly older demographics and command higher price points."

"Gucci is the opportunity to fall in love with fashion, ancora," De Sarno said in a post on Instagram in the run-up to the show, using the Italian word for "again."

The brand plastered the word "ancora" on huge advertisements that marked the date of the show, alongside the Gucci logo -- in white lettering, on a burgundy backdrop -- covering buildings around the world, including in New York, Chengdu, Bangkok and London.

A forecast of rain prompted a last-minute venue shift to the Milan headquarters rather than outdoors in the swanky Brera district.

Debut collections can generate mixed reactions, and even positive press reviews are not always a proxy for future commercial success. However, the fashion show will "definitely impact investors' perception of De Sarno's capacity to trigger an inflexion in Gucci's aesthetics," said Antoine Belge, analyst with Exane BNP Paribas, before the show.

"The climax is not for right away -- it's sometimes the second or third shows that are the most important," Kering CEO and Chairman Francois-Henri Pinault told reporters ahead of the show, before greeting front-row guests Julia Roberts and Ryan Gosling.

One of fashion's biggest success stories in recent years, Gucci has fallen behind rivals like LVMH-owned Louis Vuitton and Dior that capitalized on strong post-pandemic appetite for luxury goods.

Also read:&nbsp;<a href="https://www.wionews.com/entertainment/lifestyle/news-prince-william-in-new-york-embraces-citys-lifestyle-with-a-central-park-run-637735">Prince William, in New York, embraces city's lifestyle with a Central Park run</a>

Since parting ways in November with previous creative director Alessandro Michele, whose eclectic, gender-neutral styles were credited with soaring sales and profits in the 2015-2019 period, the group has been laying the groundwork for the brand reset with more elevated and timeless looks.

Gucci's long-time CEO Marco Bizzarri is due to leave the company after the show, to be replaced by managing director Jean-Francois Palus - Pinault's right-hand man - for a transitional period.

Kering shares closed 1.5% higher after the show.

At their current price, Kering shares are trading at the equivalent of around 14 times expected earnings over the next 12 months, according to LSEG data. That forward PE compares to 42 for Hermes and 22 for Moncler.

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Gucci's new designer Sabato De Sarno sent out a glamorous, skin-baring lineup of minimalist designs for his first fashion show on Friday, drawing praise for a highly anticipated debut which owner Kering hopes will help revive sales at its flagship brand.

Gucci's new designer Sabato De Sarno sent out a glamorous, skin-baring lineup of minimalist designs for his first fashion show on Friday, drawing praise for a highly anticipated debut which owner Kering hopes will help revive sales at its flagship brand. Models filed down a darkened, concrete runway at the label's Milan headquarters, a former aircraft factory, parading short shorts paired with suit jackets, strapless mini-dresses, trim sweatshirts and tank tops with plunging necklines. De Sarno "knows what we need at the moment, clean luxe sportswear that isn't cheeky sexy," said fashion critic Kenneth Richard, editor in chief of industry publication The Impression. Federico Giglio, chief executive and business manager of Italy-based high-end fashion retailer Giglio.com, said the collection was "a new way to see luxury - wearable without the need for excess, that keeps with the times." Friday's catwalk presentation serves as the aesthetic foundation of a broad reset of the French group's prized label -- key to creating buzz and reigniting sales, even if the new designs won't hit stores until early next year. Thomas Chauvet, analyst with Citi, said the first glimpse of De Sarno's vision for the brand showed "a clear evolution from prior brand aesthetics, likely to attract slightly older demographics and command higher price points." "Gucci is the opportunity to fall in love with fashion, ancora," De Sarno said in a post on Instagram in the run-up to the show, using the Italian word for "again." The brand plastered the word "ancora" on huge advertisements that marked the date of the show, alongside the Gucci logo -- in white lettering, on a burgundy backdrop -- covering buildings around the world, including in New York, Chengdu, Bangkok and London. A forecast of rain prompted a last-minute venue shift to the Milan headquarters rather than outdoors in the swanky Brera district. Debut collections can generate mixed reactions, and even positive press reviews are not always a proxy for future commercial success. However, the fashion show will "definitely impact investors' perception of De Sarno's capacity to trigger an inflexion in Gucci's aesthetics," said Antoine Belge, analyst with Exane BNP Paribas, before the show. "The climax is not for right away -- it's sometimes the second or third shows that are the most important," Kering CEO and Chairman Francois-Henri Pinault told reporters ahead of the show, before greeting front-row guests Julia Roberts and Ryan Gosling. One of fashion's biggest success stories in recent years, Gucci has fallen behind rivals like LVMH-owned Louis Vuitton and Dior that capitalized on strong post-pandemic appetite for luxury goods. Also read: Prince William, in New York, embraces city's lifestyle with a Central Park run Since parting ways in November with previous creative director Alessandro Michele, whose eclectic, gender-neutral styles were credited with soaring sales and profits in the 2015-2019 period, the group has been laying the groundwork for the brand reset with more elevated and timeless looks. Gucci's long-time CEO Marco Bizzarri is due to leave the company after the show, to be replaced by managing director Jean-Francois Palus - Pinault's right-hand man - for a transitional period. Kering shares closed 1.5% higher after the show. At their current price, Kering shares are trading at the equivalent of around 14 times expected earnings over the next 12 months, according to LSEG data. That forward PE compares to 42 for Hermes and 22 for Moncler. WATCH WION LIVE HERE You can now write for wionews.com and be a part of the community. Share your stories and opinions with us here.

For Gucci debut, new designer De Sarno showcases minimalist glamour

Women's Fashion Week ended in Milan on Monday.&nbsp;

Here are some of the trends that emerged for autumn-winter 2023-2024 -- a return to elegance underscored by cut and quality, chic sensuality, and restrained classicism with a smattering of eccentric spice.

- Elegant suits - 
 
Italian fashion houses have ditched sporty designs and streetwear for elegant, classically cut suits in refined fabrics.&nbsp;

Trousers are long and shoe-covering. Oversized power-shoulder jackets have made way for classic cuts -- waisted, belted or gathered at the back.

Dolce &amp; Gabbana showed suits with jackets that are cropped, matador style, or long but structured with wasp waists.

Fendi opted for slimline jackets with a single row of buttons, discrete lapel collars and a deconstructed men's waistcoat. 
Ferragamo was all cinched-waisted silhouettes, reminiscent of 1950s Hollywood divas.&nbsp;

Max Mara's coats are gathered at the back, Tod's jackets waisted or belted, while Moschino went for suits with houndstooth and gold buttons à la Chanel.

- Winter lingerie - 
The effects of climate change made themselves felt on the Milan podiums, where winter collections were diaphanous and revealing, and lingerie much in evidence.

Dolce &amp; Gabbana claimed ownership of this trend, showing a corset bearing a label with its creation date -- 1991. Its collection was almost entirely composed of black underwear.&nbsp;

Fendi layered baby dolls over poplin shirts.

Roberto Cavalli vamped on the theme, with long hippy versions in silk and velvet.

Gucci opted for bijou micro bras and underwear visible through see-through petticoats

 
- Yeti coats - 
 
 
All-enveloping Yeti-style coats in furry or feathery textiles also took to the podium -- a necessary addition to the skimpy underwear for those keen not to catch their deaths of cold.

Gucci offered up Cruella Deville and blue fake fur. Roberto Cavalli's fake furs are an object lesson in art imitating nature.

There were red feathers at Dolce &amp; Gabbana, multicoloured plumes at Moschino.&nbsp;

Max Mara's signature teddy bear coats are ultra snuggly.

MSGM varied the theme in mauve, lemon and white boucle, with fringes or long fur.

Ferragamo's iterations come in pearly grey or flaming red.

- Red and black -&nbsp; 
 
While black was everywhere, there was still a thread of red to jive it up, in all shades from scarlet to bordeaux.&nbsp;

Ferrari, which has launched a ready-to-wear collection, stuck to its iconic red but kept it discreet, in the lining of sombre-hued coats or in black-bordered swatches on dressing gown coats.

Dolce &amp; Gabbana went for head-to-toe scarlet -- sheer red tights, red patent sandals, red dresses, red bags, red gloves, red lipstick.

Ferragamo added vermillion to minidresses and used it in splashes on black, on bakelite button to light up a black dress and in stitching on a black suit.

MSGM selected raspberry red for a dress embracing the rounded contours of a pregnant model.

Prada's leather suit skirts are scarlet, while Fendi demonstrated yet again how well red marries with electric pink.

- Uniforms and utility garments - 
 
Prada led the way with this trend, transforming the white of nurses' uniforms into long shirts with short trains and the severe, old-fashioned capes of World War Two operators.&nbsp; 
 
The collection's officers' trousers, worn with cravats, are tight-fitted and its slimline slacks high-waisted to give them a feminine touch.

There were aviators' jackets at Tod's and leather officers' belts with little pockets.

Fendi's take on utility garments involved adding aprons to trousers or deconstructing blue workman's overalls.

Women's Fashion Week ended in Milan on Monday. Here are some of the trends that emerged for autumn-winter 2023-2024 -- a return to elegance underscored by cut and quality, chic sensuality, and restrained classicism with a smattering of eccentric spice.

Women's Fashion Week ended in Milan on Monday. Here are some of the trends that emerged for autumn-winter 2023-2024 -- a return to elegance underscored by cut and quality, chic sensuality, and restrained classicism with a smattering of eccentric spice. - Elegant suits - Italian fashion houses have ditched sporty designs and streetwear for elegant, classically cut suits in refined fabrics. Trousers are long and shoe-covering. Oversized power-shoulder jackets have made way for classic cuts -- waisted, belted or gathered at the back. Dolce & Gabbana showed suits with jackets that are cropped, matador style, or long but structured with wasp waists. Fendi opted for slimline jackets with a single row of buttons, discrete lapel collars and a deconstructed men's waistcoat. Ferragamo was all cinched-waisted silhouettes, reminiscent of 1950s Hollywood divas. Max Mara's coats are gathered at the back, Tod's jackets waisted or belted, while Moschino went for suits with houndstooth and gold buttons à la Chanel. - Winter lingerie - The effects of climate change made themselves felt on the Milan podiums, where winter collections were diaphanous and revealing, and lingerie much in evidence. Dolce & Gabbana claimed ownership of this trend, showing a corset bearing a label with its creation date -- 1991. Its collection was almost entirely composed of black underwear. Fendi layered baby dolls over poplin shirts. Roberto Cavalli vamped on the theme, with long hippy versions in silk and velvet. Gucci opted for bijou micro bras and underwear visible through see-through petticoats - Yeti coats - All-enveloping Yeti-style coats in furry or feathery textiles also took to the podium -- a necessary addition to the skimpy underwear for those keen not to catch their deaths of cold. Gucci offered up Cruella Deville and blue fake fur. Roberto Cavalli's fake furs are an object lesson in art imitating nature. There were red feathers at Dolce & Gabbana, multicoloured plumes at Moschino. Max Mara's signature teddy bear coats are ultra snuggly. MSGM varied the theme in mauve, lemon and white boucle, with fringes or long fur. Ferragamo's iterations come in pearly grey or flaming red. - Red and black - While black was everywhere, there was still a thread of red to jive it up, in all shades from scarlet to bordeaux. Ferrari, which has launched a ready-to-wear collection, stuck to its iconic red but kept it discreet, in the lining of sombre-hued coats or in black-bordered swatches on dressing gown coats. Dolce & Gabbana went for head-to-toe scarlet -- sheer red tights, red patent sandals, red dresses, red bags, red gloves, red lipstick. Ferragamo added vermillion to minidresses and used it in splashes on black, on bakelite button to light up a black dress and in stitching on a black suit. MSGM selected raspberry red for a dress embracing the rounded contours of a pregnant model. Prada's leather suit skirts are scarlet, while Fendi demonstrated yet again how well red marries with electric pink. - Uniforms and utility garments - Prada led the way with this trend, transforming the white of nurses' uniforms into long shirts with short trains and the severe, old-fashioned capes of World War Two operators. The collection's officers' trousers, worn with cravats, are tight-fitted and its slimline slacks high-waisted to give them a feminine touch. There were aviators' jackets at Tod's and leather officers' belts with little pockets. Fendi's take on utility garments involved adding aprons to trousers or deconstructing blue workman's overalls.

Elegance and sensuality grace Milan Fashion Week

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For Gucci debut, new designer De Sarno showcases minimalist glamour

Elegance and sensuality grace Milan Fashion Week