Sewing for a living: Low wages plague Myanmar's garment sector

Myanmar's garment industry is a rare bright spot in an economy severely impacted by the military coup of 2021 and ongoing civil conflict. Despite the political turmoil, the sector's export earnings reached $7.6 billion in 2022, up from $5.7 billion in 2019.

A significant portion of these exports goes to the European Union, with brands like Adidas, H&M, and bestsellers continuing to source from Myanmar. However, the industry’s growth has not translated into better conditions for workers who face harsh realities.

Workers like Wai Wai are among the thousands labouring in Myanmar’s garment factories, earning as little as $3 a day. With daily wages barely covering basic expenses like rent and food, many workers skip meals to send money back home to family members affected by conflict in other regions.

Wai Wai spoke to AFP and said, "Before the coup, we can work overtime until 9 pm and earn extra money for personal expenses. But the salary we earn right now is for supporting our family, and the money left is only enough for food; we don't have any extra money."

Despite the country’s export boom, factory workers struggle with rising costs, including cotton prices, which have more than doubled, and frequent power shortages that hinder productivity.

Thin Thin Khine, another garment factory worker, spoke to AFP. "In the past, we could buy new 2 or 3 [pieces of] clothes every month, but now we can't afford to buy new clothes, cosmetics or things for personal care. Food is more important than anything, and we can only spend money on food."

The situation has worsened since the military coup, with reports of widespread worker rights violations, including bans on unions and arrests of union leaders. Additionally, a conscription law enacted this year has raised fears among workers, particularly women, who are at risk of being drafted into the military.

While global companies like Bestsellers have continued sourcing from Myanmar, they face increasing pressure to balance operations with ethical concerns. The ongoing challenges in Myanmar’s garment sector highlight the complex intersection of economic growth, worker exploitation, and political instability.