'Rs 60 crore price tag': How Jacob & Co created a diamond watch named after an Indian King

Produced by Tarun Mishra

Apr 17, 2025, 03:39 PM

Conceptualisation and Design

Jacob Arabo envisioned a watch that seamlessly integrates large, high-quality diamonds with intricate watchmaking. The design process involved numerous iterations to achieve a harmonious balance between aesthetics and functionality.

Gem Selection and Setting

The Billionaire Ashoka features 656 emerald-cut white diamonds, totalling 129 carats. The diamonds are meticulously selected for their clarity and size, ensuring uniformity. The setting process requires precision to maintain the structural integrity of the watch while showcasing the brilliance of each stone.

Movement Engineering

At its core, the watch houses the calibre JCAM39, a skeletonised, hand-wound movement. Designed specifically for this model, the movement's bridges are crafted from white gold and adorned with 57 baguette-cut diamonds. This choice of material facilitates the gem-setting process without compromising durability.

Structural Design

The movement's architecture is vertically aligned, featuring a one-minute tourbillon and a large barrel. This configuration not only enhances the watch's visual appeal but also contributes to its 72-hour power reserve.

Limited Editions and Variants

Beyond the original diamond version, Jacob & Co. has introduced variants such as the Billionaire III Emeralds, Rubies, and Rainbow editions. Each variant maintains the structural design while incorporating different gemstones, offering diverse aesthetic options to collectors.

Craftsmanship and Assembly

The assembly of the Billionaire Ashoka demands a high level of craftsmanship. Each component, from the gem-set bridges to the intricate movement parts, is assembled with precision to ensure optimal performance and longevity.

Final Presentation

The culmination of design, engineering, and craftsmanship results in a timepiece that stands as a symbol of luxury and innovation. The Billionaire Ashoka not only tells time but also narrates a story of artistic and technical mastery. Currently the cost of one watch is $7 million (Rs 60 crore).